the gods must be crazy
Finally, after 2 weeks and 4 days, I am home from my trip. I walked through my door, burnt 4 shades darker by the desert sun, and covered with bug bites. My maid welcomed me, my
brother hugged me, and Ananda looked at me like she wasn't sure if she had ever seen me before, and started wailing when I went near her. Two weeks of being gone must seem like an awfully long time for a 5 month old baby, at least long enough to forget who I was.
I was home! I was so happy to be home, with my siblings, and my niece, and our Christmas tree, and my boyfriend who came over with a bunch of yellow roses. Yay!
My trip to Africa was a busy one and a fruitful one. I don't even know whether it is possible to write about all of it. But I will try my best.
I have my Tito Butch and Tita Ollie to thank for this trip because they invited me along. We were also with my
lolo, my
Tito Jiggs, my little 8 year old cousin
Jamie, and his yaya
Me-an. We later on met up with my tito's daughter
Jeanette in the Seychelles. But Seychelles comes later on.
The bulk of my trip was our Safari in Botswanna and our stay in Zambia. A safari is pretty difficult to prepare for. From Gaborone (which is a city in Botswanna), they fly you to the camp on a very small plane, which is why they don't allow you to bring suitcases. They require you to pack a duffle bag not exceeding 12 kilos. We also weren't allowed to wear clothes in bright colors while we were out in the wilderness, not even white, only neutrals.
Then there were other things to prepare for, like illness. The African wilderness is a malaria zone, and a few days prior to the trip, we were already on oral vaccines, to be taken once everyday. It was this medicine called
Malarone, which had the most terrible, terrible side effects like nausea, mouth sores, head ache, cough, fever, diarrhea, stomach ache, decrease in level of liver performance, insomnia, anorexia, and NIGHTMARES! I'd always take the Malarone right after dinner, and more than once, I awoke in the middle of the night with a slight fever, nausea, a congested throat, a killer head ache, and shivering from a nightmare. Every night, my dreams were strange and very vivid.
Needless to say, I cannot wait to be off this pill!!! I still have one more to take. :-(
Johannesburg, South Africa
This is where we stayed over night before leaving for Botswanna. We didn't get to go around much but we did see lots of beautiful Jacaranda trees, and
Nelson Mandela's house. It's a very clean and modern city, and it's chilly like Baguio in the summer.
Okavango Delta, Botswana
Botswana has it's towns and cities, but we stayed in a place far away from civilization. A series of plane rides took us to the
Okavango Delta which is a lush oasis in the middle of the
Kalahari Desert. This is where the camp was located. Though we were surrounded by trees and rivers, we were still in desert and thus experienced desert air, and desert sun. It was scorching and arrid in the day time, but pleasantly chilly in the night time. I had a slight nose bleed the entire time I was there because I wasn't used to the utter lack of humidity.
In the desert, sweat didn't even have time to manifest on my skin. It just evaporated straight away and the only way I could tell how much water I had lost is when the dehydration would sink in. It's so dry there that once you step out of the shower, you're dry in a minute even without a towel (except your hair of course).
Jao Camp, Botswana
In Jao we stayed in "luxury tents" that were elevated maybe 7 feet off the ground on stilts. The walls were made of olive-green canvas but the inside looked like the nicest hotel room ever. It had a balcony overlooking the river, and an outdoor shower that made you feel like you were bathing in the forest. The water came straight from the river and was 100% clean and drinkable!
On my first night in Jao, I woke up several times in the night in total fright because I could hear scratching, snorting, yowling and these terrifying growls all around me. It turned out to be a family of baboons living in our tree overhead instead of a bunch of wild animals like I initally thought it was.
They had the loveliest staff who really made us feel at home. This is Kidy, one of the serving ladies. I loved her smile and her gentleness. The women in Botswana are so beautiful! They were built curvy, volputuous, and sensual with very pretty eyes and smiles, and such rich, smooth, dark skin. Some of them wore braids, and the others had their hair cropped close to their scalps. It's so different from our own standards of beauty where we like our women pale, stick skinny, and with long straight hair.
Everyday we were all up at 5 AM for a quick breakfast before hopping unto the land rover for a game drive with our awesome guide, Frank Mashebe. He is the best guide ever! He knows so much about every single thing and he was a fun and happy guy. There he is driving in front with me beside him. If I ever go back, I'd like Frank to be my guide again!
All the guides we met were like super boy scouts! They could identify all kinds of animal tracks, bird calls...even animal dung. They could tell how long ago animal tracks had been made. They were all sharp-shooters with a riffle, could make fires, hunt food, knew which plants were used for which, and had sharp senses... in other words, they were like wild animals themselves except they were humans. :-p They were also walking encyclopedias. They knew the behaviors, hunting patterns, mating patterns of every single animal and they would talk about them like they were their friends. Amazing!
There were alot of elephants in Jao. In fact, we actually got a little sick of them because they were all over. Sometimes they'd even go up to my balcony and eat from the trees. We also saw a leopard, some buffalo, giraffes...so many animals and dozens and dozens of different kinds of birds! We rode a dug-out canoe (called a "Mekoro" I think) down a river lined with papyrus and water lilies. The water was pure and pristine and I realized that I had never been in a clean river in my entire life. It also made me think if there were any clean rivers at all in the Philippines. I doubt it. There will always be a candy wrapper, or an empty snack bag floating around somewhere.
The Okavango Delta is just teeming with wildlife! It's almost unreal! It's a completely different experience seeing animals out in the wilderness than seeing it in some zoo pen. Also, the sunset, and the terrain, and the colors were all so different from any I've seen before. The desert is so poetic. Africa is so beautiful and blessed.
I cannot stress how the experience has changed my view of nature, of life. Being in a place so untouched by man, you start to realize that this is how God intended it all to be, the Garden of Eden. To quote "The Lion King" (how appropriate), I saw the Great Circle of Life in action and have a newfound respect for nature, for animals, for this cycle of creation, and life and death. Like all creatures, we strive to stay alive, and yet bow gracefully to the circle when our time comes to expire. Living and dying is all part of a great pattern we partake in and we cannot ever deny being part of this ever revolving circle. Our actions affect one another because we are part of each other.
And what's more, every thing was created for a reason and a purpose, and even the most seemingly insignificant plant or animal plays a vital role in preserving the delicate balance of nature. Every thing down to the last blade of grass is important. Everything, when in it's natural place, is perfect. Therefore, nothing in this world is worthless. Everyone of us and every part of us is created with divine purpose. Therefore, all things must be accorded with respect.
After seeing how animals live and communicate in the wilderness, how can anyone think animals are stupid? After learning about how each species lives in it's own different "society", how can anyone think animals are lower then we are? Man may have been appointed the ruler of the animals but we are also the only creature who is absolutely clueless about what we are here for. Everything in the world seems to know it's place except us.
Mombo Camp, Botswanna
Camp number two was Mombo We stayed in luxury tents as well, much like Jao. And like Jao, the whole camp was elevated on stilts to keep wild animals at bay. No baboons living on my roof this time. Instead, at night I heard buffalos!!! I'd wake up to the sound of them moaning and heaving and it sounded like a porn flick or something! Haha!
Mombo has no rivers surrounding it but it is famous for it's game drives. It is here where you can catch the so-called "Big 5": Rhinos, Elephants, Buffalos, Lions, and Leopards! The terrain here was less lush than Jao because theere were no rivers. There was less sand, more dessert dust, and more brambles, thorn bushes, shrubs, and beautiful Baobab trees like the on the left. They're absolutely massive! You can hollow it out and live inside it. I fell in love with them.
Isn't she a beaut?
Hyenas look like dirty, thread-bare old carpets. Nothing about them is graceful or exquisite. They walk like drunken bums you find in alley ways. I love them though. One of them broke into the camp's kitchen one morning and stole a gargabe can of left-overs weighing over 7 kilograms. Our guide, Brookes, chased it across the African plane, creating chaos at a nearby heard if impala. He never caught the hyena but we all had a really good laugh over it.
All the lions we saw looked like this!
(So much for the King of the Jungle!)
They may be cute but they can kill you!!! :-p
Zambia
The River Club, Livingstone, Zambia
Our third African country and camp was in Zambia! That contraption on the right, the one that looks like "a lawn mower with wings", is called a micro-lite. That's me riding behind the pilot! My Tita Ollie rode it too! The wings are made of cloth! The micro-lite took us over Victoria Falls, and some parts of Zambia. It felt incredibly liberating to be up in the sky unenclosed by walls. And no, I wasn't afraid at all. I've always toyed around with the idea of getting a pilot's license one day (because I hate driving hahaha!).
The falls look really puny in this picture but it actually spans a gorge that goes on for several miles. It's so long that half of it is in Zambia while the other half is in Zimbabwe. It's known as "The Smoke That Thunders" because where the water is stronger, all you can see is mist. It's one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World along with The Grand Canyon and the Northern Lights. Gorgeous eh?
And speaking of Zimbabwe, Zim and Zambia are separated by a river... It's weird to look across the river at another country.
I had my own room in River Club so I spent my nights soaking in my tub that overlooked the river, and relaxing to the sound of... hippos!
Seychelles
The Seychelles are a group of little islands of the coast of Kenya. Some of the top ten beaches in the world are found there, and it is the home of the famous Coco De Mer palm tree (you can research it), the Aldabra (shown having some action on the left), and the black parrot. The locals are a mix of French, British, Indian, African, and Chinese blood, a total melting pot.
I have never felt so far from civilization, not even in the bush for some reason. Maybe it's because in the bush, I was also busy and running about after animals. Seychelles is the sleepiest place I've ever been to. There are no traffic lights, no billboards, no buildings, no grocery stores, no street signs. The islands are so small, you can cross them in less than an hour. The TV had only two channels on it.
It's a really beautiful place. Spent a couple of days on the main island, Mahe, and the rest of the trip on the island of Prasline. The sand is finer than Boracay, and the ocean is an eye-popping aquamarine.
Seychelles' famous rock formations!
I just thought this was pretty!
things on the other side of the world
Have you ever felt so loaded with new ideas that you feel you don't even know where to begin processing? Africa is so completely different from the world I've known all my life.
For one, there was always the constant reminder of the ongoing AIDs pandemic. As Nino told me last night, the first life on earth came from Africa, and now death orginates from Africa too: HIV.
When we drive down EDSA, we are bombarded by images of Telecom Ads. In Africa, we get ads from the anti-AIDs campaign. Who can forget the following captions:
"I can make a diffference by being faithful to my partner."
"Know your status! Get tested."
"Not everyone's doing it! Virgin power."
"Do you have it? Visit the nearest AIDs Crisis Center"
The problem is so big that the life expectancy there is something like 35 years old. Imagine expecting to live only until age 35? It's like there's already a death sentence on you.
The problem is said to lie in their traditions. By culture, people in Africa are polygamous. It's perfectly acceptable for an unmarried woman to have a child with a man, and not expect him to marry her. Men on the other hand are allowed several wives. It's woven into the fabric of their culture, and culture is very hard to change. And what's more, many people there
knowingly spread the HIV virus around. They don't bother to prevent it from circulating.
How do you help a culture that seems to prefer succumbing to AIDs rather than change it's ways? I know it's a simplistic question, but then what do I know about anything?
Things sure are different on the other side of the world.